WorkPrinter-16 Set Up

You will need a Mac or PC with three internal drives. One drive should be your system drive and the other two should be set up in a Raid-0 drive array. Failure to use an internal Raid-0 array can result in a loss of sync on the captured file.

For the Mac, you will need the CaptureMate software. For the PC, you will need CineCap software.

Both are available only to MovieStuff customers that have received their WorkPrinter units shipped directly from MovieStuff. Please email us with the name and email address that was on the order form used to purchase the WorkPrinter unit and we will email you the private purchase link for either the CineCap or CaptureMate software. To maintain your warranty and customer support, we ask that you please do not publically post this purchase link on the web. Thanks.

NOTE: Some video cameras have difficulty white balancing to the new daylight balanced LED light source. If your image is too blue and you have already switched your camera to its daylight setting, then simply use an 85B conversion filter on the front of your camera lens. This will convert the daylight LED light source to tungsten balance. Your camera can then be white balanced in either the daylight or tungsten setting, depending on which provides the best results.

This unit will not operate directly on 230 volt power. For international operation, you will need a transformer rated at about 250 watts capable of providing 115 volts AC. As transformers are notoriously inaccurate in their labeling, please measure the voltage of your transformer to be sure that it does not put out more than 115VAC at 50Hz.  If in doubt, please contact MovieStuff at 713-863-7384 for specific help with this issue. I recommend this transformer:

After unpacking your unit, please account for the following items:

A) The synch mouse
B) The synch cable
C) The projector
D) The condenser lens

Connect the two halves of the baseboard and secure with the latches provided. Mount the condenser lens on the baseboard as shown in figure A. On some units, there may be three spacers or washers that go under the condenser lens. Insert beneath condenser lens and attach with the provided screws. Be careful not to tighten too much or you risk breaking the plastic base of the condenser lens.   Once attached, the condenser lens should face out toward the camera as seen in figure B. Note the framer adjustment tab near the gate of the projector as well as the height adjustment foot on the front of the unit. They will be used later to fine tune the placement of the image in the center of the condenser lens.

Place the camera in manual focus and the zoom on wide angle and start with the camera about 1 foot from the condenser lens. Avoid using the built-in LCD monitor of the camera and always feed the video of the camera to a full size monitor to allow for critical alignment. The camera should have a minimum of a 10x optical zoom for best results and should be mounted on a sturdy tripod equipped with an adjustable column head for incremental vertical adjustments. Level the camera so that the camera lens is centered on the condenser lens.  Plug in the projector and turn the control knob to the PLAY position. If the motor starts, turn it off by pressing the red MOTOR button. Press the red LIGHT button and adjust the alignment of the camera until you see a small white dot in the middle of the condenser lens as illustrated in figure C. Next, slowly pull the camera away from the condenser lens, keeping the white dot in the center. As you pull back, the white dot will grow in size, starting to reveal the edges of the gate as seen in figure D. As you continue pulling away, you will be able to see the entire rectangular gate but will need to constantly keep the camera aligned both vertically (using the column adjustment) as well as side to side (move the entire tripod; not panning) while pulling the camera back. Once the entire gate is visible, lock the camera into position.

Next, place a take up reel on the take up spindle of the projector. Turn the control knob back to the STOP position but leave the lamp on. Locate some disposable film that you can use to practice loading with and refer to figure E for the appropriate threading path. This unit is a slot load, so the film enters from the side but MUST pass around the various rollers as indicated. Thread the film leader onto the take up reel and turn the take up reel by hand several times to make sure that you get a good wrap. Turn the control knob to PLAY and note the rollers as they change their positions relative to the film. The rollers and film path should now appear as illustrated in figure F.

Briefly press the red MOTOR button and observe the film as it passes through the unit. If the projector loses its loop (the film draws tight and chatters), stop the motor and turn the control knob to STOP and then back again to PLAY. Start the motor again and everything should run smoothly. Now, stop the motor but leave the control knob in the PLAY position. Ideally, you would like a clean frame with good contrast visible in the gate of the projector. If the film stops mid-frame, "bump" the red MOTOR button until a frame lands clearly in the gate. Zoom the camera into the condenser lens and focus. Use the FRAME ADJUSTMENT and HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT as seen in figure B to center the frame in the middle of the condenser lens.

At this point, the image may have a "bow" in the frameline as seen in figure G.Adjusting the focus of the PROJECTOR will subtly change the size and shape of the image, allowing the framelines to be corrected until they are straight. Even if this action causes the image to go out of focus, do not worry. The focus can be reestablished at the camera. Once corrected, the framelines should be straight across and illumination even from corner to corner with the focus sharp across the entire image as seen in figure H.

Next, connect the synch mouse to the computer and attach the synch cable to the mouse on one end and the other end to the SYNCH socket found on the projector. Set up your computer for STOP MOTION CAPTURE using the appropriate software and leave the mouse button hovering over the on-screen capture button. Prime the computer by clicking off the first frame manually. Then, press the red MOTOR button and start the projector running. Click on the SYNCH SWITCH on the projector and the on-screen mouse should start capturing frames. Once completed, review the captured footage. If you see any vertical blurring in the frames, then the timing of the projector needs to be adjusted. Remove the multiple screws along the edge that hold the back cover in place and remove the back cover carefully. The TIMING DISK is found near the front of the projector and partially protrudes near the lens. As seen in figure I, there is a set screw on the TIMING DISK that can be loosened with an allen wrench. Hold the center shaft and rotate the TIMING DISK a bit then tighten the set screw in place. Transfer some more film and review the footage. If the streaking gets better, then continue rotating the TIMING DISK the same direction. If the streaking gets worse, continue the opposite direction. Eventually, the transfer should be clear of any streaking frames. Apply the appropriate speed change and let the footage render. The end result should be a crystal clear transfer with no visible flicker and good focus and illumination from corner to corner. If you have any questions, please feel free to email us or give me a call at 830-966-4664.

Roger Evans