Unpack the unit but do NOT plug it in.
POWER: If on international power at 220-240VAC at 50
cycles, you will need
a transformer that outputs 120 volts at 250 watts.
The plug is standard for North America but can be adapted
to local international standards using adaptors found in most hardware stores.
You will need to set your shutter speed to 1/60th of
a second for NTSC or 1/50th of a second for PAL.
Image stablization or steady shot should be turned off.
Avoid using progressive scan or "frame mode".
Just the normal interlaced video mode is needed, even if using HD.
NOTE: Some HD cameras have CMOS sensors instead of CCDs. CMOS sensors use a "rolling shutter" while CCD sensors use a "global shutter". While global shutters work best, rolling shutters will also work well with this unit but you may occasionally detect an anomaly from the CMOS sensor as it scans from top to bottom. This is very, very rare but is a product of the CMOS rolling shutter and would be seen as a very, very light band that makes its way from the top of the screen to the bottom and would be visible on only the lightest of images such as open sky. Again, this is very rare and is not a defect in the CineMate unit but, rather, a product of the CMOS sensor of some cameras. CCDs will never produce this effect and not all CMOS sensors will and, even if present, should not prevent you from creating quality transfers.
Best results and best registration is achieved if your film has been freshly cleaned and lubed with good splices and no torn sprocket holes. Always use the take up reel provided as the unit has been tension calibrated or use with that reel. Supply reels should be inspected for warpage or anything that will impede the even feed of film from the reel. Feed reels that bind or grab the edges of the film may cause registration problems or even film damage. Head leader should be fairly straight without a lot of "curl memory" that will impede proper loading.
After unpackaging the
unit, place on a sturdy and stable surface.
The end with the condenser lens should allow for a tripod to be placed
about a meter or less from the unit with clearance enough
for the tripod legs. The tripod should have an adjustable height via
a column and the head should allow for seperate horizon and tilt functions.
Ball-head tripods should be avoided.
First, install the
(glass should be cleaned with non-alcohol products and a clean, cotton cloth)
Install control box cables as shown.
Plug in unit.
Turn power on.
Remove and clean pressure plate.
(do this after each roll for best results)
Note the path of the film.
Close gate by turning
knob to "play".
Seat the film in the gate by turning
the motor switch on then off one time briefly.
Various films have
different frame line placements. To make minor adjustments
in the vertical positioning of the frame, use the adjustable foot at the front of
the projector as shown.
Position the camera about 2.5 feet from the lens. Look at the monitor
for distortion of the image. If there is curvature of the image top and bottom
then you need to adjust the focus knob of the projector to correct. This will make the image
go out of focus, which is normal. Always reclaim your focus using the camera lens.
Never use the projector focus knob to adjust focus. The projector
focus knob should only be used to correct for distortion.
It should be noted that the focus can be adjusted in two different ways: your camera and the projector. In fact, because there is no screen, the lens of the projector, the condenser lens and the camera lens are all working as one, big lens. Moving elements to different positions will create different results. If you zoom in and find that you can fill the frame but can not focus at all or evenly via the camera, set the camera focus as best you can and then adjust the focus of the projector.
Ultimately, there is little I can tell you here about
how to set your focus as every camera is different. You will have to experiment
with your set up until you get it right. I can tell you that you should
be able to get it sharp edge to edge with no chromatic aberrations and
no distortion or pin cushion. Just remember that you have several ways
to attenuate the image by using the projector focus and camera focus in
combination. Once you feel you have achieved the desired result, zoom your
camera in to rid the image of the edges of the gate and refocus. The image
should be sharp edge to edge and corner to corner with no hot spot nor
any chromatic aberrations. If the edge of the frame goes dark when you
zoom in, just adjust the placement of the camera side to side (not panning,
but actually moving the camera) ever so slightly until you restore even
Start your transfer by turning on the motor.
Sound level of audio can be adjusted using
the controls on the front of the projector. Audio
is usually okay with markings in the "12 o'clock" position.
The internal LED for the film can be controlled in two ways. In the "AUTO" position,
you can adjust the preset of the LED intensity.
In the "MANUAL" position, the LED can be adjusted using the provided remote.
NOTE: When you stop the projector,
make sure that the internal shutter blade does not block the light. If
the unit stops with the shutter blocking the light, then bump the motor
switch on-off until the shutter moves out of the way. It should also be
noted that this unit no longer "projects". You will not see any light coming
from the projection lens as the super-bright projection lamp has been removed
and replaced by a low intensity LED backlight. So if you hold your hand
in front of the lens looking for a projected image, you will not see it.
You will only see an image in the condenser lens.
Hope you have spectacular results!