Retro Pro Trouble Shooting
bookmark this page for future reference.
This list will be added to as we have more
input from users.
Last update: September 20, 2014
I can not load the software.
Make sure that you have a 64 bit system (Win-7 or Win-8)
and a minimum of 8 gigs of RAM.
When I try to calibrate, I get an error message that
there is no camera connected.
Obviously, make sure that your USB cable is plugged in.
Also, during installation, there is a point where the
software will ask you to plug in the USB cable. If you
skipped that step, or if you had the USB cable plugged in
during the entire installation, then it is possible that
the camera drivers did not load properly. If so, unplug
the USB cable, uninstall the software and then reinstall.
Once the software completes loading, wait a few minutes
before you attempt to use the software so that all drivers
and background processes can finish their tasks.
When I put the software in calibration mode, I do not
see an image in the capture screen.
Make sure that you have pressed
both the "C" calibration button as well as the "Set
up" button and that the unit is actually running film
with the correct format selected.
Make sure that you have the sprocket holes towards the
back edge as shown in the instructions.
When I am capturing, I see the numbers advancing but I
see no picture in the capture window.
It is very important that all drivers for both your
motherboard and graphics card are up to date. Even if your PC
or laptop is new, it may have been on the shelf for at least 6
months or more and, therefore, requires updating.
I can calibrate the unit but, when I
try to capture, I see no image and the numbers do not
Make sure that you have calibrated the unit.
Make sure that the sprocket holes are on the correct side for
capture. All holes should be on the inside edge of the film.
Make sure that you have selected the correct format to match
the film type being captured.
Also, film fragments sometime drop down
into the gate which prevents the light from getting to the
sprocket hole area. Gently blow out any debris that has
fallen into the gate.
When I capture film, the RetroScan-HD
software will sometimes fail to capture at the beginning of
a roll or will occasionally skip frames during capture.
There are also times where the software will end a capture
prematurely and ask me to name the file.
Film is often clear at the beginning and end of a roll and
often has bright imagery that actually touches the sprocket
holes. During capture, the
RetroScan-HD Pro software looks at the entire width of the
frame, including the sprocket hole area. The software must
be able to distinguish the sprocket hole from the bright
imagery for a successful capture of that frame. If the
highlight areas are touching the sprocket hole, and your
exposure is turned too high, then the highlight areas will
merge with the sprocket hole. This will confuse the
software and prevent that frame from being captured.
Reducing the brightness on the exposure knob just a tiny
bit will usually do the trick.
The sensor must not be turned up too high or too low or
the sprocket holes will not trigger a capture.
Also, if the sprocket holes are torn too much, then the
shape of the sprocket hole will not be recognizable to the
software and that frame will be skipped during capture. We
are constantly improving the algorithm for detecting
sprocket holes so this will be less and less of a problem
in the future.
I have reduced the
exposure and I can now capture but my dark areas are
losing detail. If I turn up the brightness to
compensate, the capture stops.
The fact that the capture stops means that your exposure
was so high that you were losing important detail in the
highlights. Reducing the brightness to continue the
capture also protects the highlight detail that would
other wise be forever lost but may make some areas darker
than desired. The best way to compensate is to use the
brightness/gamma slider to bring out information in the
darker areas after you have adjusted the brightness to the
level necessary to retain detail in the highlights. The
brightness/gamma slider is the grey slider just above the
horizon slider and below the RGB sliders.
Sometimes during capture the images seem
to go in and out of focus. This can also be accompanied by
dropped frames during capture.
Make sure that the film clip is properly tensioned. Consult
the set up instructions for a photo showing proper adjustment
of the tension clip. In general, it is advised to re-tension
the clip at the beginning of each day of capture.
I can export a numbered image
sequence but I can not export a .MOV file. The progress bar
speed across quickly and the folder that should contain the
.MOV file is empty.
There are several possible solutions:
Make sure that you have latest version of QuickTime
installed on your system prior to installing the RetroScan-HD
Pro software. Also, make sure that you do the complete install
and not the minimum installation. You do not need to purchase
QuickTime Pro but that will work if you already have it on
Make sure that you are exporting to a
drive formatted as NTFS and not FAT32, which is limited to
a 4 gig file size limit. Because numbered image sequences
have files that are all smaller than 4 gigs, you can
export numbered image sequences to a FAT32 drive with no
problem but .MOV files are usually larger unless it is a
very, very short capture.
Make sure that you have enough open drive space for the
size of the .MOV file you are exporting. You must capture
to an internal drive but you can export to an internal or
And finally, QuickTime
has a bug that sometimes prevents it from loading
the codecs necessary to export .MOV files via
RetroScan-HD software. If you find you can not
export a .MOV file, QT may be missing the
necessary codec for proper operation. You can
supplant the missing codec in QT by also
installing the Panasonic P2 View Plus. It's free
and only takes a second to install. You can
download the P2 View Plus HERE.
When I capture compressed, the image
lags behind and or freezes altogether.
Make sure that you are using an Intel processor 2.5 GHz or
faster and 8 gigs of RAM. You can not capture using an AMD
processor. Intel i7 or faster is recommended. Also, make sure
that you are not capturing to an external drive.
When I capture
uncompressed, I find the image is jerky during capture
and some frames might be missing.
Most likely, you will need to slow the unit down to 10fps
using the speed selection switch in the back of the unit.
In some cases, you may need to capture to a faster
internal drive. Many laptops still use the slower 5400 RPM
drives which may not be suitable for capturing
uncompressed. A solid state drive or an internal Raid-0
drive array may be needed for uncompressed capture.
I can capture uncompressed fine at
10fpsand not drop frames but, when I play back uncompressed
files, I find the image is jerky.
You may need to capture to a faster internal
drive. Many laptops still use the slower 5400 RPM drives
which may not be suitable for playing uncompressed files.
A solid state drive or an internal Raid-0 drive array may
be needed for uncompressed capture. This does not mean
that you can not capture uncompressed to the slower drive.
At 10fps, it may capture fine and only affect playback. If
you then export the movie to a faster drive, the movie
will most likely play fine since the faster drive can
handle the data rate more easily.